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It’s too soon to call it a tidal shift, but there is a welcome current in California winemaking these days. Some wineries and winemakers are moving away from the big, high-alcohol style that has largely dominated California for a generation. This is good news for those who prefer wines with elegance and restraint to wines that wallop.

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I’ve been surprised to find several notable wines in this more modest style in recent weeks, especially a first-rate zinfandel, a variety hardly known for subtlety or for alcohol levels much below 15 percent.

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This is the point where some defenders of these wine behemoths will argue that alcohol levels alone should not be a reason to dismissing them – that plenty of them are well-balanced and enjoyable. Yes, but many others are not and can turn the highly enjoyable experience of wine drinking into a power struggle.

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Already, the LCB carries about 100 varietals from Pennsylvania winemakers, said Stacy Kriedeman, spokeswoman with the agency.

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Maybe a chambourcin, an ice wine or a vidal blanc? It's all in the name of the buy-local trend.

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The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board and the Pennsylvania Winery Association have teamed up to begin offering more of the state-made wines at the Pennsylvania Wine & Spirit Stores.

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onehopewine.com . California is dry, water- and wine-wise. Strong sales but weak vintages have made good, cheap juice part of the past, along with discounted brands and private labels. With low inventories everywhere from your corner shop to national distributors, there's little California product to fill the pipeline. Best values from California will be blends, as growers cobble together supply.

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Oregon and Washington have had serviceable vintages recently, but both states are waiting for newer vineyards to bear fruit. Those acres will eventually fill the shelves but in the meantime Europe and South America have wine now and look to us to buy it.

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Look for under-$10 to $15 values from Spain, Chile, Argentina and France's south. One of my favorites is Santa Julia "Reserva" Cabernet (Argentina), a mouthful of berry and plum fruit and spicy complexity, all for about $13. A few dollars more buys remarkable complexity from South America. In the $15-and-up range, look for Catena Zapata or Zuccardi (Argentina), Errazuriz or Montes (Chile).

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Wines from Schumer?s home state of New York will be featured at the inaugural luncheon, including a riesling from the Finger Lakes region.

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As the chairman of the Joint Congressional Committee on Inaugural Ceremonies, Schumer suggested a 2009 merlot from Bedell Cellars on the North Fork of Long Island and a Tierce 2010 dry riesling produced from grapes from three Finger Lakes vineyards.

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With hundreds of guests including President Barack Obama, his Cabinet and the Supreme Court justices, landing on the inaugural table is the political equivalent of ?Top Chef.? ?It does have commercial value. ... It?s a stamp of approval,? said Cary Greene, chief operating officer and lead lobbyist at WineAmerica, one of two associations that represent domestic wine producers. ?I imagine that this is the most prominent event that Bedell has been served at. It?s a big deal.? Trent Preszler, the CEO of Bedell Cellars, serves on the board of directors of WineAmerica, which spent $100,000 on lobbying in 2011.

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